Have you ever come up short on a rappel when you remember that you’d managed to make it before? How about tried to toprope a pitch only to find yourself unable to lower a climber to the ground when others, with the same length ropes, had no problem? This might not simply be your memory going bad on you. There are significant differences in the lengths of ropes all labelled and sold as being identical. And these difference don’t just occur among various brands, but actually are apparent within brands and even matched pairs of twin and half ropes sold as sets.

I originally became aware of these major differences when trying to evaluate ropes based upon their weight, measured in grams per meter. I quickly realized that I couldn’t simply divide the rope’s weight (easy to measure) by its stated length, because none of the 8 different 60m ropes I tested was actually the same length as any other. The skinniest (and lightest, per-meter) rope wouldn’t necessarily weigh the least, since the manufacturer may have cut it longer. In short, I couldn’t evaluate the grams-per-meter because I couldn’t reliably know the number of meters. This inability to accurately weigh a rope proved especially frustrating, because evaluating a rope based on the advertised diameter is the only real alternative, but this relies on trusting the self-policed measurement of a company whose interests lie in selling you their new ultra skinny rope. And these measurements are made with calipers which can easily pinch down a few millimeters onto the rope, yielding an inaccurate measure. Furthermore, some ropes have an immediate tendency to expand and puff out when used, making their initial diameter especially irrelevant. The weight, measured in grams/meter, was clearly the best option. I just had to know how many meters my 60m ropes were.

I drug a pile of more than 10 different ropes to a nearby high school tennis court, and was able to use the painted lines to measure out approximate distances for all my cords. Note that none of these measurements were made when the ropes were being weighted or sen hung vertically, so they would certainly allow for rappels longer than 1/2 of the lengths listed below. But in the end I was amazed at the differences among these ropes, both in terms of their lengths and their weights. All of these ropes are also used, and some have been used for years. The measured weight may include some dirt and another alpine debris gathered over the course of a few seasons of use, but even this is useful to measure, because if particular models are more prone to collecting dirt and gaining weight, that information is worth knowing.

It’s easy to see why some local pitches (Thin Fingers for 70m ropes immediately comes to mind) seem to be the site of frequent accents or near-misses, when climbers swear their rope will be long enough to set up a TR, because they correctly remember being able to do so in the past. Some “70m” ropes work, and others don’t. The takeaway for rope evaluating and rope-buying users is to try and weigh the ropes yourself, before buying, and without simply relying on the published weight. Ask to un-spool and compare the lengths of ropes you are considering buying, so you can know if that additional weight is due to a heavier rope, or merely a longer one. And learn which of your pair of twin or half ropes is actually longer, and thread that rope through the anchor on any rope stretching rappels. Using all the rope you’ve got with you is the next best thing to having a 62-meter “60m” when you remember your rappel just barely touches down.

The post How Long is Your 60m Rope? appeared first on Cascade Climbers.

There’s more to winter rock climbing in the northwest than pulling on greasy plastic and sneaky a morning at the front side crags of Smith Rock. Washington and Oregon aren’t cragging destinations this time of year, but they do contain enough winter crags to make a few December and January days possible and downright enjoyable on the rock. The trick is finding an area with the holy trinity of necessary traits: sunny, sheltered, and low-elevation.

In Squamish, the smoke bluffs and aptly-named solarium can provide excellent winter conditions and cool temps means the slab routes wont even feel sandbagged! Many Bellingham and Vancouver-area climbers forget about sunny Skaha, BC’s other destination crag just a few hours to the east. Skaha is generally colder than the coastal cities in winter, but has much less precipitation. The rattlesnakes will be hibernating, leaving the crags mostly empty and perfect on calm sunny days, regardless of the air temperature. Winter days at the The Wave, Red Tail, or The Fortress can be perfect.

For Washington climbers, the options traditionally start and end with Vantage. The crags are near the state’s driest and sunniest point, but to escape the wind (and crowds) which typify the columnar climbing of the Sunshine Wall, head downhill to the lower tier of sport crags, such as the jigsaw wall or M&M Wall. The routes are close together, making it a great spot to keep moving for warmth and maximizing pitches on the short days. Other east-side spots worth thinking about are upper Castle Rock in Leavenworth (only if it’s fully sunny) and the Peshastin Pinnacles (it’s often dry and sunny for the masochists who savor questionable bolts and sandstone.) Nearly all of Index’s walls, which generally to face south, receive good winter sun once the leaves have fallen. This time of year can be ideal for upper and lower town wall climbs, especially those which dry quickly, as time between rain spells is usually short. On windy days, The Country stays much more sheltered than other walls in the area, allowing for comfortable t-shirt climbing even when local ice has formed. Guidebook author Darryl Cramer considers this spot “a great place to climb in cold weather (if the sun is shining). Seawash [a bolted 5.11] was first climbed in the low 30s with snow all around. The winds were howling a few feet away from the rock but the person actually climbing was virtually wind free.”

Western Washington’s other often-ignored winter crag is Mt. Erie, near Anacortes. The climbing may not be much to write home about, but the views are outstanding and the walls sit in a minor rainshadow cast by the Olympic Mountains. If you’ve never been, it’s worth a mid-winter visit for a romp up Zig-Zag to the Springboard (5.8) or a lead of Frogs in Space (5.11a) as eagles soar overhead.

Trout Creek, the region’s crack-climbing mecca, stays open for climbing until January 15th before a golden eagle closure begins. Trout can be ideal right up until the closure date. As long as the sun is shining you’ll be warm enough to climb. The west-facing crag tends to remain fairly sheltered from the wind, even if the approach hike is breezy, and the parking lot next to the Deschutes River is gusting. I’ve climbed at Trout creek when the mercury was in the 30s, and if the sun was going full-force, I’d still be sweating. Unfortunately, Trout’s main wall does not receive any morning sun, so there’s almost no chance of climbing before the afternoon.

Smith Rock is far and away the best bet for winter rock in the area. Just avoid the persistent foggy spells (the air temperature may be higher than during clear and cold spells, but direct sun is a requirement in winter) and make sure to plan your visit to catch the rays throughout the day. The ‘front side’ is deservedly popular, but the lower and upper gorge walls remain especially calm and soak in the sun at different times. Start on the east or SE facing climbs, and plan to move along as soon as the sun does. With a little luck and a lot of good planning, you should be able to maintain fitness throughout the winter, though a few greasy plastic sessions probably wont hurt.

Selected Trip Reports on CascadeClimbers.com for each area:

Smith Rock

Trout Creek

Mt. Erie

Mt. Erie (Zig Zag)

Vantage + Vantage

Skaha

Peshastin

The post Cold Weather Crags in Washington, Oregon, and BC appeared first on Cascade Climbers.

Stop going cragging. It’s an inefficient and overly-elaborate process if your primary goal when heading to the cliff is to improve as a climber.

Choosing an area that suits both partners, then sorting and re-sorting gear, and dealing with the myriad changes in belayers, shoes, and climbing locations all take up huge amounts of time and energy, and produce nothing of value in terms of training. Traditional partnered cragging results in a lot of “down time” for everyone. And while that down time is desirable if climbers are spending their day attempting pitches near their physical limit, it is absolutely an undesirable outcome if you are trying to gain endurance, maximize your vertical mileage, or learn the intricacies of a pitch without boring your belayer to death. The better option, if you are trying to maximize your time spent actually climbing and learning, is to borrow a technique from experienced rock wizards like Mikey Schaeffer and Justin Sjong. Learn to toprope solo. Leave your normal belayer behind, and team up with the best partner money can buy. Plus, your Mini Traxion won’t bail on you or complain that your feet stink.

Toprope soloing is the process of climbing along the length of a fixed rope (either static or dynamic) and using a pre-rigged mechanical device to arrest your fall. Whichever device you choose, it is clipped both to your harness and to the rope, often with a backup or duplicate device. There many setup variations, which I will detail in a followup article,  but the basic idea is to use a device which will only travel in one direction along the rope. Even if you do come to the crag with a (human) partner, you will both be able to get in far more climbing if you both bring the necessary equipment for solo toproping, and simply climb alongside each other on adjacent routes. And on days when you couldn’t round up a partner at all, going soloing on a rope is the only option to gain some mileage and keep improving. Just bear in mind that despite not having a human partner, you are still toproping, so please give priority to anyone actually seeking to lead.

Winter is a perfect time to use toprope solo setup, because the days are short and cold, making continuous movement an appealing prospect. You’ll stay far warmer than you would have if you were trading leads and belays. And the crags are frequently less crowded that during summer, making it a good time to fix ropes on a few adjacent pitches without intruding on others. Many serious climbers take winter, especially later winter, as a time to build up endurance and mileage. This training phase, which lends itself perfectly to TR solo climbing, comes after the end of fall season and a “power peak” with crisp autumn conditions conducive to cruxy redpoints or bouldering projects. Endurance climbing often involves long “ARC” (Aerobic Respiration and Capillarity) sessions in a gym, where the climber intentionally maintains a pump and climbs despite fatigue for 20-40 minute intervals. This proven training technique is ideal for auto-belays indoors, TR soloing outside, and permanently quashing a partnership if you ask for a belay from a real human.

A toprope solo setup is also an excellent way to get in your swings on the PNW’s ephemeral ice lines, and to re-learn the flow of climbing with tools and crampons in a low-stress environment. Canadian ice guru Will Gadd suggests that one needs to have followed 50 pitches of steep ice before leading vertical ice safely and efficiently. Without prolonged access to steep and protectable ice of other regions, using a solo setup is a great way to get in tune during our early ice season, and to work up toward those 50 pitches. Not having a belayer under you also allows you to climb without endangering another person by having them in range of falling and flying ice debris. Furthermore, ice is seldom steeper than vertical and its routes typically don’t have the long and wandery traverses found on some rock climbs, both traits that make ice an ideal medium for toprope soloing. Since it often allows for many hands-free stances and results in a slower and more static climbing style than on rock, it is ideal for working out the bugs in your soloing system, including tying backup knots and working rope through your chosen device.

In addition to training endurance, toprope soloing is also a fantastic way to practice and learn technique on balancy pitches and very difficult cruxes, even if a high-mileage day isn’t your goal. While working his way through redpoint ascents of all the major routes on Index’s Upper Town Wall, Mikey Schaefer chose the top-down TR solo approach on nearly every line. Without a bored partner keeping him on belay, he was free to spend long amounts of time studying tiny intricacies and subtle position changes that characterize hyper-technical granite climbing. And despite the impressive stature of the Index Upper Town Wall, even the longest routes on the formation are just under 200m, easily fixed with 3 standard ropes.

I hope that after reading this far, you’ve been convinced why to toprope solo. In the next few weeks I’ll be sharing some of the where and how to toprope solo. I’ll be going through deal locations for solo toproping cliffs and ice lines in the northwest, and the pros and cons of different rigging systems.

The post Climb More. Improve More. TR Solo. appeared first on Cascade Climbers.

Toprope soloing is the fastest and easiest way to maximize climbing with limited time at the crag. This week I will focus on standard setups and ideal locations for TR solo climbing, but for an introduction to the topic and why you should try it, please read the first article in this 2-part series. The individual hardware setup that you use and where you choose to use it are the two decisions which may seem confusing or daunting. However, there are several products and setup strategies specifically designed to work well for TR soloing, some using just the standard climbing gear you may already own. Finding a suitable location is also easy, as long as you keep in mind some of the general characteristics which define an ideal TR solo spot.

The first step in TR soloing is to tie off a rope above the area you want to climb, using a bomber anchor. Static lines are best since rope stretch can be a minor annoyance, but dynamic lead lines from 9.4-10.2mm work as well. Pad any edges with a piece of cloth or the Petzl Rope ProTec Rappel your intended pitch, re-tying the rope via clove hitches to gear or bolts along the path of the climb, taking care to protect traverses and sharp edges as you would in a normal TR setup. Once at the base of the pitch and off rappel, connect yourself to the fixed rope via a device designed for moving in only one direction along the rope–allowing you to climb up easily, and never slide down should you fall or let go.

The Petzl Mini Traxion (or the newer and smaller Micro Traxion) clipped into the belay loop with a locker is the standard and most popular ascension device for TR solo climbing. Other devices which function similarly include the Wild Country Ropeman, and Petzl Microcender, which doesn´t have any teeth, so it will be less damaging on your ropes over time. But despite widespread use of several devices in this context, there IS NO CERTIFYING TEST conducted by the UIAA or other independent group to determine which ascension devices are safe specifically for TR soloing. Use common sense about a device’s limitations and include a backup in some form, either a second device on your belay loop, held up against your stomach with a neck sling (see illustration) or dangling under your belay loop (in photo lower down). These ascension devices only move in one direction along a rope, so you´ll need a separate rappel device with with you as well.

Sample possible setup – courtesy Petzl

Many climbers prefer to use a second identical ascension device as a backup, also clipped to their belay loop or onto a 12” sling dangling just under the belay loop. This works, but a different emergency backup method is to use a small steel quicklink dangling on a 12” sling from your belay loop. Pull up an armload of slack above any ledges and above the ground, and tie a quick overhand knot (on a bight) in your rope below you. In the unheard-of event that your primary device (Mini Traxion, etc) suddenly explodes, you´ll only slide down your rope until the quicklink catches on the backup knot. The upper (or only) Mini Traxion on

OvaLock with crossload guard, made by AutriAlpin

your belay loop may also be clipped to an elastic, non-weight-bearing shoulder or chest sling, such as a stretchy thera-band tied into a loop around your neck. Without an elastic shoulder strap, you can drape a standard 24” sling over each shoulder, forming an “X”, and tie your ascension device to the cross of the X with a small piece of accesory cord. This merely holds the upper device high up against the stomach or lower chest, minimizing any slack or drag. I strongly suggest using one of the new non-crossload belay carabiners to keep your device’s carabiner from cross-loading. All CAMP and Cassin harnesses also include snug-fitting anti twist belay loops, with inner slots in the belay loop to hold any carabiner in the ideal orientation. Make sure you don´t have long hair or loose fabric that can catch in your chosen device. Some climbers clip a water bottle or pair of shoes as a weight to the bottom of their rope before starting up, which helps things to feed smoothly on slabby pitches where the rope´s weight isn´t free hanging. Once you´re ready to descend, even just to re-work a crux, you will have to attach to the rope via the rappel device of your choosing and then disconnect your ascension hardware. This process requires a hands-free ledge or clipping into a piece of gear to unweight your ascender.

Sample setup with 2 Mini Traxions (no chest harness) – Courtesy CC.Com Gallery & Mikey Schaefer

The ideal spot for TR soloing will have a series of easily-reached bolted anchors above a concentration of direct, vertical pitches challenging for you to lead. The ideal cliff or ice formation would also be totally empty of other climbers or any loose rock, sharp edges, falling ice, or major ledges. Since this TR solo eden simply doesn´t exist, you´ll have to find the next best thing in your area, taking extreme care not to drop ropes or rocks on others, and always giving priority to anyone actually choosing to lead a pitch. Here are a few areas that fit many of the criteria:

• Squamish´s Smoke Bluffs or Pet Wall

• Anacortes´ Mt. Erie

• Index´s Lookout Point

• Leavenworth´s Alphabet Rock, Rattlesnake Rock, or Castle Rock

• Vantage´s Sunshine Wall

• Oregon´s Trout Creek

• Smith Rock´s Karate Wall

Ice

• Mt. Baker´s Pan Dome Falls

• Mt. Baker´s Coleman Glacier Seracs

• Leavenworth´s Rainbow Falls area

• Alpental´s  Chairlift Falls

The post Top Rope Solo: Where and How in the Pacific Northwest appeared first on Cascade Climbers.

Let me first state the obvious: last year’s winter (2013/2014) in the Pacific Northwest was a bizarre one. In December we had uncharacteristically cold, dry weather, giving all of Seattle’s ice climbers a chance to play in their own backyard for a few weeks. January and February turned balmy, the ice disappeared, and skiers started thinking about picking up a new hobby. And then at the end of February, the clouds let loose, finally, dumping feet of snow in the mountains and bringing things back to a semblance of equilibrium.

Suffice it to say, we had it all in the PNW. The weather has provided opportunity for quite the diversity of mountain shenanigans, and a great venue to test out a very unique jacket and pants.

When I received my Arc’teryx Alpha Comp jacket and pants, the first thing I noticed, to be honest, was the awesome raspberry-pink color of the jacket, or as Arc’teryx calls it, “Ruby Sunrise.” These polite Canadians definitely know how to cater to their female audience. On the heels of this, I saw that there were, in fact, two different shades of pink incorporated into the jacket. Why? The Arc’teryx Alpha Comp jacket and pants are composed of two separate fabrics: waterproof GoreTex fabric (ProShell) in high impact areas and Fortius 1.0 stretch woven fabric in the less exposed areas (hence the “Comp[ospite]” in the name). This combination provides a unique and innovative mix of protection from the elements and breathability.

Honestly, when I first received the Alpha Comp pair, I was skeptical. Owing to the minimalist nature of my lifestyle, I have very few jackets and pants; when considering purchasing gear I prioritize finding one piece to serve multiple functions. The Alpha Comps seemed so specialized. Why, especially when I live in the Pacific Northwest, would I need layers made only partially with Gore waterproof fabric? Rain is kind of an all or nothing thing, so shouldn’t my jacket be as well?

Yet after 15+ days of use, I am a skeptic no longer. Last winter I was lucky enough to get in January ascents of Rainier and Hood, ski tour in the Cascades, climb the North Face of Colonial, and go ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies. My Alpha Comps came with me on all of these missions and were absolutely the most ideal layers I could have brought. They are perfect for withstanding spindrift, mountain winds, moderately dripping ice on frozen waterfalls, falling snow, all while still dumping heat. And when I think about it, aren’t these the conditions I mostly encounter in my winter pursuits? I probably speak for most of us when I say I don’t often go out mountain funhogging in the rain. Yet until now, I’ve always worn waterproof shells and accepted the reality that they’re not as breathable or free-moving as I would like.

Now, in a quite diverse array of conditions (read: winter 2013-2014), the Alpha Comps have earned their place as my new go-to, wear-all-day-without-hassle jacket and pants. When I brought the Alpha Comps into the mountains, my layering/clothing became almost a non-issue. They can handle both a sunny approach and a long cold alpine snow/ice climb. I’m not one to stop and fuss around with layers, and this is a huge reason why I fell in love with these pieces; I put the jacket and pants on and leave them on, sacrificing neither breathability nor protection. Additionally, the stretchiness of both the jacket and pants is a hugely beneficial feature that should not be overlooked; the trim is nice and fit while still feeling far less restrictive than a full hardshell or winter-weight softshell piece.

Let me speak to some specifics of the first the jacket, and then the pants. The arms of the jacket do seem a bit long and bunchy compared to other of Arc’teryx Ascent pieces, but this does allow for full coverage at maximum extension. The Alpha Comp is more of a relaxed, roomier fit than the Venta MX; it layers over my Atom LT Hoody well and also fits fine over a just single baselayer. The Harness HemLock inserts, along with the just-right hem length, are great for ensuring that the jacket never rides up above my harness. The helmet compatible hood with laminated brim and chin guard on the front zip let me bury my face inside when the winds come without chafing or compromising vision. I would ideally have the pockets be higher and a bit more accessible with a harness or backpack on (much like my Alpha SL), but the chest pocket provides a handy and always accessible cell phone/bar stash. The zipper pulls are minimalist but somehow quite easy to use with gloves on. All these functions and features, and it weighs in at only 355 grams.

People tend to collect jackets more than pants, but these pants are certainly worth having as part of your lineup. The GoreTex areas are intelligently placed: I rappelled on totally water-saturated ropes and they caught all the spraying water. The ankle zips allow the pants to open up and fit over bulky ski boots. The thigh pocket is unique, and I have mixed feelings about it. While it’s large enough to fit gloves or a phone or a bar, I found it’s placement extremely difficult to access in certain stances at belays when my leg was pressed up against the front of the pant. Additionally, the flap is a blessing and a curse: it shelters the zipper from ice screws and ice/snow, but makes it hard to reach with bulky gloves on.

In sum, I think the Arc’teryx Alpha Comps are a gem. They are innovative and intelligent, and certainly one-of-a-kind. My waterproof shells still definitely have their place on drippier days, but certainly will be left on the hanger more than usual this winter.

Ready to buy? Look for the best prices on Arc’teryx Alpha Comps here.

The post Arcteryx Alpha Comp Hoody & Pants Review by Jenny Abegg appeared first on Cascade Climbers.

Skiing Colchuck Lake – Dragontail Peak behind

The Cascades offer an amazing array of options when it comes to different mountain sports. And Spring is the best time of year for multi-sport days. We may not have the fluffiest powder, fattest blue alpine ice, or cleanest white granite, but we have some of everything, so Spring is an amazing time to take advantage of the area’s diversity with single-day outings which combine several different activities on adjacent peaks. Whether you are looking to combine splitboarding with some alpine rock scrambling, you want to swing tools on alpine ice amidst a ski tour, or you’re seeking hard granite face climbing followed with a steep couloir descent to the car, May is the prime month for multi-sport days in the Cascades, as well as the Sierra and the Rockies. And since this time of year is typically before most climbers (and all mosquitos) have gotten into the swing of activity up high, you’ll find blissful solitude to match the long daylight hours.

In May of 2014 I enjoyed a fantastic combination of moderate classics in Washington’s Stuart Range. A friend and I climbed Dragontail Peak’s Triple Couloirs route (2,500′ 5.7 AI3) and Prusik Peak’s Solid Gold (400′ 5.11a) combined with a ski descent across the Enchantments plateau from Dragontail, and a second ski descent down Aasgard Pass and across Colchuck Lake. We wore our tennis shoes from the car to the edge of the frozen-over Colchuck Lake and left them there in the morning, donning our ski boots to skin across the frozen lake. We did the majority of the day’s activities in ski boots, including a snow/ice “winter” climb on a big north face. The recent advancements in lighter and more comfortable ski boots (which remain crampon-compatible) have made technical climbing in them easier and lighter than winter climbing in the dedicated climbing-specific boots from a few decades ago. We left ski gear under Solid Gold, the rock route, and went up and down Prusik in rock shoes. A similar approach is perfect for the Washington Pass area where you can skin directly to the base of the climb, or for skiing to the Acid Baby or Valkyrie routes on Aasgard Sentinel.

As with any major alpine challenge, packing the right stuff was an important logistical challenge. We had to be prepared for all our sports, without enough weight to hold us back. Here’s a rundown of what we had with us for the day:

• Both climbers had:

1. 3oL pack with ski carrying option (ex. Black Diamond Speed 30 or CiloGear 30L WorkSack)
2. Skis, skins, ski boots that would accept crampons, and collapsing ski poles that would fit inside a pack (ex. Scarpa Maestrale, Dyanfit Bindings, Black Diamond Poles)
3. Light rigid steel crampons such as the Petzl Dart or CAMP Tour Nanotech
4. Light/basic ice tools such as the BD Fuel or Cassin X-Lite
5. Light harness with 4 gear loops (ex. Petzl Corax)
6. Light helmet for climbing and skiing, such as the Petzl Sirocco or CAMP Speed 2.0
7. Personal small locker, comfy rock shoes, chalk bag, snacks, sunglasses, jacket, hat, and light gloves

• Group gear:

1. A 60m thin single rope, such as the Edelrid Swift or Mammut Revelation
2. Wires and  double set of cams from tips to #.75 Black Diamond Camalot, with a single #1, #2 Camalot, a few short ice screws, 2 knifeblade pitons, and 2 lost arrow pitons
3. Alpine draws (10) with thin dyneema runners and light wiregates, 2 double-length (4′) runners
4. A Petzl Gri Gri 2, with a small locker, and a CAMP OVO belay plate with 2 smooth, round-stock lockers (See Alpine Belaying for the benefit of this belay setup.)

Since most major alpine routes in the Cascades and abroad require a wide-ranging skill set, spring is the perfect opportunity to explore our local diversity while honing each of these individual skills on its own. Connecting these in a linkup is the natural choice, with spring snow cover allowing for rapid transport between objectives. It’s also just an incredibly fast and fun way to explore the mountains and beat the mosquitos into your favorite alpine area.

Solid Gold while wearing a ski/climb helmet

The post What’s in the Ultimate Cascades Daypack? appeared first on Cascade Climbers.

It’s not often that a truly category-changing product comes along. Products like single wall tents, Nomic ice tools and LED headlamps were so innovative that they radically changed the landscape of their categories. Light weight climbing packs though are all relatively the same: some nylon cloth, a couple shoulder straps and not too many extra bells and whistles. What differentiates Arcteryx’s new Alpha FL climbing packs is that they are waterproof while still being tough and light weight. They are an alpine climber’s dream.

Product testing on Cerro Fitz Roy. Photo: Zac West

The Alpha FL (“Fast & Light”) Pack is a new climbing oriented backpack that is available in both 30L and 45L capacities. The bag uses Arcteryx’s AC2 seam welding technology, combined with a burly fabric to make a streamlined and waterproof backpack clearly designed for the requirements of alpine climbing. When I first saw a prototype of this pack a couple years ago, it was obvious that it was a unique addition to the climbing pack space. It had super simple exterior fixtures, a narrow/tall profile and after having just been hauled up Torre Egger’s south face, it looked nearly unscathed.

What I like about this pack is that the fabric is extremely durable, it creates a waterproof seal for my gear, and that the fit is narrow and strap-free. It also climbs really well! On lead, the comfort of the pack is really exceptional. Overall it is quite light weight and, having paired down features to the minimal set for climbing, there is nothing to strip off the pack to make it a “summit pack”.

The Alpha FL’s do not have top lids, which is a feature that I am a big fan of. Generally a top lid just adds extra straps, extra time to get into the bag, and often can make the pack off balance if overfilled. Getting food or water out at a belay or off your partner’s back is quick and easy. For external storage, the FL does have a small zip pocket, but when the bag is fully loaded it is very difficult to get anything in or out of this pocket. I think having a small pouch on the inside of the bag near the top would be more useful.

At first I wasn’t sure what I thought about the dry-bag like roll top closure skirt, but its worth slowly grew on me. If the bag isn’t full, a quick stuff is all that’s needed to keep spindrift out. No more dealing with two drawcords (one for the skirt and one for the bag). The skirt also allows you to over stuff the bag, and the rope strap is long enough to stabilize the load when fully packed. Finally, if the bag is under stuffed, you can just reverse the skirt into the bag, and it behaves as if it wasn’t there. One thing to note about Arcteryx’s sizing: the 45L size is with the pack fully filled and the skirt extended. With the skirt inverted into the pack, it’s more like a 35L pack in size.

Another thing to note on the fabric is that while it has excellent abrasion resistance, our testers did experience some micro-punctures between the ripstop grains on the bottom of the pack when it was set on very sharp granite. It is something to be aware of to maintain the waterproofness of the bag. In future versions this area could probably be reinforced with a film laminate or a screened application to help strengthen that often abused part of the pack.

Carrying a really heavy load is one place where this pack does not excel. There is no suspension, no padding on the waist belt and the shoulder straps are relatively thin. In testing, I carried a full ice and mixed load into a remote 3 day climb, which was uncomfortable at times. The pack did mold to my lower back really well though, which helps in multi-day comfort quite a bit. Adding a removable pad to the waist belt, like what was done with the older Nozone packs, could help, but would add weight. In all, this is a true alpine climbing pack that prioritizes ruggedness and light weight over comfort and that is a tradeoff I’m definitely willing to make.

The Alpha FL 30L (left) and 45L being put to good use. Photo: Zac West

After having used both the 45L and the 30L on everything from multi-day climbs to cragging, I think that they are amongst the very best climbing packs currently made. The only thing missing is an 18L version, which would be the ultimate mini day pack for climbing. Essentially a burlier cousin to the fantastic Cierzo 18L pack.

The post Arcteryx Alpha FL Pack review by Dave Burdick appeared first on Cascade Climbers.

If you haven’t checked it out the Cascade Climbers Forums lately, then you definitely should!  We replaced the Forum software with a new product, which is *way* easier to use, and lacks all the bugs that the old one did.  While we are working on porting over a key features like the TR database/search tool,  the TRs are all still there in the Route Report Forums.  So click the “Forums” link in the menu and head on over and check it out!  Also feel free to report any bugs you may find so we can get them fixed.  We are psyched about the new possibilities!

Cascadeclimbers.com user Dannible, whose photography and stories have been published here on cascadeclimbers.com and also in fine climbing and skiing literature including Alpinist and Powder Magazine, is venturing out with a new business and we are pretty excited about it.  Follow along here:

https://www.danhilden.com/

Jens Holsten climbing high on the Cotter-Bebie route on the north face of Dragontail Peak.

Thank you cheamclimber.